Best skin care ingredients

List of 318 ingredients reduced by a panel of 17 dermatologists to 83. Two Delphi rounds completed by 62 dermatologists at 43 centers. Consensus achieved for 23 ingredients, including the following: azelaic acid (acne, dark spots); benzoyl peroxide (acne, oily skin); glycolic acid (acne, dark spots); mineral sunscreen (fine lines and wrinkles, redness); niacinamide (redness, dark spots); retinoids (fine lines and wrinkles, acne, dark spots, large pores, oily skin); salicylic acid (acne, oily skin); vitamin C (fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots). Most consensus ingredients supported by level 1b or 2b evidence. 

From drugstore aisles to TikTok trends, consumers are bombarded with skin care products. But how do you know what really works, especially now with summer in full swing?

A Northwestern Medicine study offers clarity, identifying the ingredients that dermatologists agree are most effective for seven common skin complaints.

One of the most recommended ingredients was mineral sunscreen for protecting against wrinkles, redness and dry skin. Retinoids, a vitamin A derivative, also were highly recommended for improving wrinkles, acne, dark spots, large pores and oily skin. A full list of dermatologist-recommended ingredients for each skin concern is in the published study.

Published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, the study used a rigorous process called a Delphi consensus in which dozens of top dermatologists rated skin care ingredients on a 1-9 scale. After two rounds of scoring and expert discussion, only ingredients with strong agreement made the final recommended list.

“This is the first time experts have come together nationally to cut through the overwhelming number of skin care options,” said Alam, who also is a Northwestern Medicine dermatologist and surgeon. “We wanted to help both doctors and everyday users understand which ingredients are backed by the most expert support.”

Alam added that when it comes to skin care, more isn’t always better.

“Using too many products can irritate your skin and make things worse,” he said. “It’s about knowing which ingredients are most effective for your specific concerns and are best for your routine.”

The study addresses a major gap for consumers trying to navigate skin care products, which typically don’t undergo the same rigorous review by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration as medications for medical conditions, Alam said.